HOW TO GET THERE
For us, the trip was a breeze. We were living in South
Africa and just hopped on a short flight from Johannesburg. For most people it
will involve an excruciatingly long plane ride and it won’t be cheap. You will
most likely get there via South Africa so you should definitely add a week
there to your trip. (South Africa is an amazing place—but that’s a blog for
another day!) This is a trip you will
only take once. Make it count!
It’s so nice to have choices; you can see the falls from 2
different countries: Zambia or Zimbabwe. I recommend Zimbabwe; it’s very easy
to navigate your way through the small airport and just grab a taxi into town. They have largely given up on their currency and
now use the dollar so Americans don’t even have to worry about exchange rates.
The town of Victoria Falls itself is pretty small—we walked
around for the most part or used taxis when we were tired or wanted to explore
farther afield. If you use taxis, it’s
best to check at your hotel first to find out how much a trip should cost and
then use that price to negotiate with your driver. Make sure you have
change—most of the drivers won’t—or you’ll end up getting change in South African
Rand at a terrible rate.
Keep in mind that your view of the falls will vary
considerably depending on when you go. During the low water times
(August-December), the falls are much smaller (though still pretty amazing)
than during the high water season (February – June).
WHERE TO STAY
This is where I wanted to stay, but the reality is I’d
rather spend my travel buck on food and adventures. But if you have the money,
this gem of colonial charm is the place to stay. The grounds are beautiful.
There is a private path we took to the rain forest and amazing views. We spent
a sleepy afternoon tucked into the deep leather chairs in the library. So peaceful! And even if you don’t stay here,
make sure you book a table for high tea in the afternoon. The food is excellent and the view is pretty
amazing.
I told you I like to stay lowbrow. We booked a 4 person
Chalet for $86/night. There was no AC so it was a bit muggy at times, though a
fan helped some. But monkeys roamed the grounds and it has a laid back family
feel. There is an outdoor restaurant, In Da Belly (what an awesome name!),
which has Wi-Fi. The grounds are large and have dorms, chalets and camping.
There is a pool and even a very helpful concierge—all within walking distance
to the falls.
On the Zambian side of the falls, this hotel is amazing
(expensive!) and right on the Zambezi River above the falls. It is open and
luxurious. There’s a meandering path through beautifully landscaped grounds
with free roaming zebras. There’s also a private path that takes you to the
Zambian side of the falls.
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Think medieval times meets Lion King. Yes it is very cheesy
and very fun. It’s where my Zimbabwean friend drags her family every time she goes home for a visit. The evening starts at 7. When you arrive you are given traditional fabric to wear. You get to
sample traditional dishes, bang drums and participate in traditional song and
dance. There’s a witch doctor you can
visit. If you are feeling particularly brave then try the Mopane worms!
Well I could not afford to stay here but we did eat here
several times. We loved it so much we just kept coming back. I particularly
loved the world famous high tea, which is served on Stanley’s Terrace. I felt very colonial.
This outdoor café is a great place to grab some fish and
chips and watch the bungee jumpers. It is a bit of a dive and always crowded. But the views are worth it. We even had our lunch stolen by a momma baboon--which for us is a selling
point!
I love to dine al fresco. This restaurant is beautifully placed in the hotels gardens. We spent a wonderful warm evening eating great food in a beautiful garden. It’s a great place to have game done well. There is a yummy crocodile salad. Everyone should try the warthog or the impala stew.
THINGS TO DO
Wild Horizon offers a variety of adrenalin pumping activities. We used them for several of our adventures, primarily because they are well known for their safety record and professionalism. Not all of the activities available to tourists around the falls are a good idea. Government safety regulations and licensing are slim and poorly enforced in this part of the world and that is particularly true on the Zambian side of the river. I like activities that feel dangerous but are still relatively safe. This company has plenty of activities that fit the bill. We chose to do the zip line and the flying fox. The flying fox really freaked me out. I think it was being strapped in from behind and flying out like superman. I felt very insecure. My favorite was definitely the zip line. It was fast and intense. You can book one or more activities that all take place on the Zimbabwean side of the falls with breathtaking views as you walk from one adventure to the next.
The rafting was amazing. There where great rapids and very safety conscious guides. But lather up with sunscreen whenever you can. We got so busy fighting the rapids that we looked like lobsters the next day. The 750-foot vertical climb out of the gorge at the end of a long day of rafting nearly did me in! There are cold drinks and a yummy lunch waiting for you when you finally make it to the top.
This is a perfect activity for your first evening. The cruise takes place on the river above the falls (don’t worry, you won’t get near the falls). It was very relaxing. There are so many hippos to see and we even saw some crocodiles. And it was a beautiful place to watch a sunset.
This famous bridge has notorious bungee jump, which even I wasn’t foolish enough to try. You can catch a train or taxi across the bridge but we just walked (though it is a long walk and we cheated a bit on the way back with a taxi ride part way). Make sure you check visa and entry requirements for Zambia, which vary by nationality. You will definitely pay a fee to get in and out of Zambia, but totally worth an afternoon or day to see the falls from the other side. Also keep in mind that Zambian businesses accept U.S. dollars, though they will almost certainly give you change in Kwacha, so it is best to pay with the smallest bill possible.
The best (and worst) thing about the Zambian side of the falls is that it is much less regulated than the Zimbabwean side. So, if you feel like the safety rails and path setback on the Zimbabwean side really prevent you from enjoying the view, head over to the Zambian side where you don’t have the worry (or benefit) of those things!
I especially recommend this if you are not going to be able to go on Safari anywhere else while in Africa. Chobe National Park, in Botswana, is the closest game park to Victoria Falls. It is well known for its wildlife. You can do it as a day or overnight trip. A day trip usually involves a river safari in the morning and a game drive after lunch. Most tour companies will pick you up at your hotel and handle everything, including the border crossing.
Kiana zip lining over the Zambezi River
Special thanks to my family. They are the perfect travel companions and extremely photogenic!
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